Langos via leipzig: Meissen and the water

We followed the River Elbe, to Meissen, then on to one of the most beautiful cities any of us has ever visited: Dresden. Meissen first. Dresden later.

Rivers in Germany, even today, display their ancient trading roots. Every few kilometers on both sides of most of the waterways there seems to be a village, often with a ferry boat connecting the tiny settlements on opposite banks, and a church steeple rising -- and people. People are attracted to the water.

We notice as we drive that the water edged routes are so much busier than the non-water routes.

Meissen is a village on water– and further favoured, by kings, clergy and tradesfolk. Up steep sets of medieval stairs and narrow wobbly alleyways to the top of Meissen’s tiny hill sits a Gothic castle, Albrechtsburg, and a cathedral with its very own, very splendid, Bishopric, taking up much of the courtyard.

From on high you peer down over tiny distant fields terraced for vineyards. From here came the grapes, came the wine, served in the local taverns to the patrons who flocked to this pretty little place in search of the internationally famous blue and white Meissen porcelain.

Pieces of Meissenware are still sold in some of the pricier boutiques here in the village but its heyday has long passed.

A Gala Night at the Opera is set to start in Meissen just after dusk, followed by a midnight buffet supper (for only €14.50 pp) to be served in the main square afterwards, lasting from 10pm until 2am. All the surrounding restaurants are participating with their signature dishes, excited about the event. Music and a midnight feast.

If only we had the energy after a long day’s sightseeing to be still awake at 2 am. Instead, we end up camping beside a shallow stream tumbling over sharp rocks and the sound of water splashing kept us sleeping for twelve solid hours. Unbelievable how we can sleep on these trips.

Tonight we’re parked, again beside the water: this time the fast-running Elbe, waving to river bargemen and to flyers of five or six hot air balloons floating high over our heads, advertising, as the evening light fades. Just metres from downtown Dresden.

We came here for the cool of the water. Today has been hot. This May has been much warmer than any month in Europe last year. We will need to be camping by a polar glacier come July if this trend continues. Across the river a young boy strips off completely, bathes fully in the Elbe. Hot. He dresses without drying. He joins two other young boys playing under the main rail bridge that crosses to the centre of Dresden. A stream of folk hike and bike along the footpath above them, opposite us.

And the river traffic continues: quiet, humming, somnolent. Water is such an enticement.