A broken record. I’m sure I sound a lot like a broken record, saying so much is beautiful, and so very much is. But some isn’t. And, this year, every time we think we hate something, like parts of the Czech Republic, we fall in love with a little corner of it and end up hating to leave, and wishing we had another life so we had time to go back again.
Luxembourg is tiny, so it is easy for it to be beautiful everywhere. We drove into Luxembourg, the city, via the Moselle valley, which seams Luxembourg, the country. Moselle grape vines completely clothe the slopes to the river in a way I imagine tea bushes do in Sri Lanka. In perfect lines. All at a perfect height. And all perfectly green. As you are driving everything is blue water, green grape vines and blue blue skies. What a favoured European city Luxembourg is. Next to Dresden, we three have separately voted Luxembourg as our next favourite city, so far, this year. It is elegant, overtly well off– practically every car in the city is of the expensive variety and the stores are tres chic, yet it feels completely accessible and ultra friendly. And, wonderfully, not too touristy.
It is modern but with ancient roots; and it possesses the style of the European cities we remember from our trips here thirty years back but with a fine modern edge. From countries all around its borders it attracts commuter workers. You can see worker’s cars in Park and Ride bus and train stations on all sides: Belgium, Holland, Germany. Luxembourg pay is good, the work is there, the distance is viable. Next to the USA, Luxembourg is the largest investment fund centre in the world. So solid has it become it is now the head office for internet giants like Skype and eBay, and, currently, is the most important private banking zone in Europe.
And it feels strong, inviolate, solid. Enhanced by its geography, it sits high on a massive rocky promontory, where, long ago, Count Siegfred set about building a staunch impenetrable fortress. On the rocks, through the rocks, around the rocks.
This complex set of fortifications ended up stretching to twenty-three kilometers of tunnel, hewn from the rock; and 40,000m² of impenetrable bomb shelter caverns that allowed for the protection of massive numbers of armies, horses, artillery and equipment, along with supporting kitchens, bakeries, chacuteries and storage.
These fortifications are called the Casements. And just like casement windows you can see into and out of the rock caves from a pretty belvedere, above, overlooking the casements and down to the tiny suburb below them: the Grund. This corniche has been called the “most beautiful balcony of Europe” and it is hard to think of another that would come close, except perhaps, Ravello, along the Amalfi stretch.
The balcony looks down, too, onto the ruins of one of the prettiest 15th century bridges we’ve seen, which, together with the casements and the other historic quarters of Luxembourg are inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Another UNESCO site. A broken record, I know. But, truly, UNESCO sites rule!
Luxembourg is tiny, so it is easy for it to be beautiful everywhere. We drove into Luxembourg, the city, via the Moselle valley, which seams Luxembourg, the country. Moselle grape vines completely clothe the slopes to the river in a way I imagine tea bushes do in Sri Lanka. In perfect lines. All at a perfect height. And all perfectly green. As you are driving everything is blue water, green grape vines and blue blue skies. What a favoured European city Luxembourg is. Next to Dresden, we three have separately voted Luxembourg as our next favourite city, so far, this year. It is elegant, overtly well off– practically every car in the city is of the expensive variety and the stores are tres chic, yet it feels completely accessible and ultra friendly. And, wonderfully, not too touristy.
It is modern but with ancient roots; and it possesses the style of the European cities we remember from our trips here thirty years back but with a fine modern edge. From countries all around its borders it attracts commuter workers. You can see worker’s cars in Park and Ride bus and train stations on all sides: Belgium, Holland, Germany. Luxembourg pay is good, the work is there, the distance is viable. Next to the USA, Luxembourg is the largest investment fund centre in the world. So solid has it become it is now the head office for internet giants like Skype and eBay, and, currently, is the most important private banking zone in Europe.
And it feels strong, inviolate, solid. Enhanced by its geography, it sits high on a massive rocky promontory, where, long ago, Count Siegfred set about building a staunch impenetrable fortress. On the rocks, through the rocks, around the rocks.
This complex set of fortifications ended up stretching to twenty-three kilometers of tunnel, hewn from the rock; and 40,000m² of impenetrable bomb shelter caverns that allowed for the protection of massive numbers of armies, horses, artillery and equipment, along with supporting kitchens, bakeries, chacuteries and storage.
These fortifications are called the Casements. And just like casement windows you can see into and out of the rock caves from a pretty belvedere, above, overlooking the casements and down to the tiny suburb below them: the Grund. This corniche has been called the “most beautiful balcony of Europe” and it is hard to think of another that would come close, except perhaps, Ravello, along the Amalfi stretch.
The balcony looks down, too, onto the ruins of one of the prettiest 15th century bridges we’ve seen, which, together with the casements and the other historic quarters of Luxembourg are inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Another UNESCO site. A broken record, I know. But, truly, UNESCO sites rule!
 |
| Enroute to Luxembourg |
 |
| Bock Casements, Luxembourg |
 |
| Adolphe Bridge, Luxembourg |
 |
| Everywhere is lovely |
 |
| Casement view from the Belvedere |
 |
| Narrow Medieval streets and angles |
No comments:
Post a Comment